Two iconic producers lay claim to the invention of Rosé Champagnes: Ruinart sent the first bottles to Germany as far back as 1764, while Veuve Clicquot made a shipment of it in 1775. It would seem, however, that in the former case, the unusual color was the result of a “mishap” during the pressing while, as far as the “widow” is concerned, there was a definite intention to launch a new product on the market.

Today, Rosé Champagne is increasing the ranks of its enthusiasts, and not only among women thanks to its many variegated expressions, from the fresher, drinkable varieties to those of a more complex and austere structure, and its versatility of pairings, from beef tartare to salmon steaks, from sushi to cold cuts.

NICOLAS FEUILLATTE PALMES D’OR BRUT ROSÉ, $200

100% Pinot Noir, by the rare rosé de signée method.

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The color of cherry soda and almost as sweet.

CHAMPAGNE BOLLINGER “LA GRANDE AANNÉE ROSÉ” 2004, $210

62% Pinot Noir, 32 % Chardonnay, 6% red Pinot Noir

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The La Grande Année Rosé 2004 is a quintessential expression of the style. It’s their superb La Grande Année Brut with the addition of just 6% red Pinot Noir – unusually low – but so concentrated it not only adds the coppery hue but further ramps up the Pinot character.

VEUVE CLICQUOT CAVE PRIVÉE ROSÉ 1990, $230

47% Pinot Noir, 27% Chardonnay, 9% Pinot Meunier, 17% red Pinot Noir

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Distinctive and powerful, each Vintage is the unique expression of a single harvest chosen for its remarkable quality and loyalty to the House’s style.

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See also: 10 Best Sparkling Wines

TAITTINGER COMTES DE CHAMPAGNE ROSÉ 2006, $262

58% Pinot Noir, 30% Chardonnay, 12% red Pinot noir

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Still young for the remarkably long-lived Comtes de Champagnes. More orange than pink, with tiny, delicate bubbles and a gentle approach that belies the substantial, earthy, mineral-infused power that underlies this very great Champagne.